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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So, I've been looking at kits and am considering the CX Racing kit. Seems solid from what I read and won't kill my wallet. Just have a couple of questions about the kit and front mounts in general. So, without a HPFP I'm not expecting massive gains with this being my first mod, but I do get stuck in traffic pretty often and I've heard a FMIC will really help with heat soak problems, just curious if others can confirm. I'm curious if the core is going to effect my radiator's cooling ability, or is it negligible? Also, how big of a core will fit in the stock bumper without a lot of modification? And finally, the kit comes with a recirculating BOV. I've read that recirculating is the way to go with this car. Should I use the new BOV, or try to keep the stock bypass? Also, will a recirculating BOV cause that psshhhhhh noise while driving? I'm trying to keep my car looking pretty stock and sleeperish. I would prefer not to draw attention to myself because of a BOV. I'm still pretty new to turbo cars. Thanks for any advice you guys can throw my way on the FM kit. Last edited by projectr13b; 11-11-2013 at 09:21 AM. Reason: forgot a question |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Horrible first mod. Keep reading. To answer a couple of your questions however... Keep your stock bypass. Stick with an IC that is the size of a tr8 or smaller.
__________________ -Pat 2008 True Red MS3 GT3071R 'n Stuff SOLD 1999 Jeep XJ 6.5" Lift | Armor | 33" Tires | Bumpers 1996 Jeep XJ 3.5" Lift | 31" GY Duratracs | Bumpers 1994 Miata 15x8's w/NT05's | KYB AGX | Hardog Roll Bar | 70D Engine Mounts |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ^This, you won't get much out of the fmic until you have supporting mods. I would suggest a little more research on what the "best" first mods are. The route I took after much research on this site was sri, tip, and Cobb AP. Up next will be hpfp internals and then maybe a fmic. Oh and don't forget about the rear motor mount. it should definitely be one of the first few.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I don't think a cx racing fmic is a bad choice for a first/early mod. VA is no Texas or Nevada, but it can still get pretty hot, and to answer your questions: Don't use the BOV that comes with the kit, it's shitty and you're stock one will work fine. FMIC will not heat soak at all really, and it will usually raise your coolant temps a negligible amount. The CX racing core is good for your rather-stock car, and will fit without any permanent modification to your car. Get involved with your local Nator chapter and check out some other peoples cars. But I think a little FMIC kit like the one you're interested is good because heat soak is the devil. Opinions are like assholes, and most of the people on this forum are assholes.
__________________ 2010 Alternative Lifestyle Blue Mazdaspeed3 (sold)2008 Chevy Colorado. The only truck that comes with a lifetime guarantee... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks guys. I'm still reading up on what to do and when to make some decent power. Looks like they are selling these kits cheap and will be for a while, so not really as time sensitive as I was thinking. Found them on eBay, but they are selling it for roughly the same price through their site. Original plans were RMM, SRI and AP, then maybe a full exhaust and the front mount. I'll likely keep going that way then. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Heres a freebie... AP Internals Intake RMM DP E85 or Meth Tune Thats all you need for >300hp
__________________ -Pat 2008 True Red MS3 GT3071R 'n Stuff SOLD 1999 Jeep XJ 6.5" Lift | Armor | 33" Tires | Bumpers 1996 Jeep XJ 3.5" Lift | 31" GY Duratracs | Bumpers 1994 Miata 15x8's w/NT05's | KYB AGX | Hardog Roll Bar | 70D Engine Mounts |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score FMIC shouldn't really be your first mod. There's a LOT of other things that will give you a performance boost before you need it. I know someone who's pushing 330hp on a stock tmic. I'd suggest going rmm --> AP --> sri/tip --> internals --> dp or rp --> and then consider a fmic, etune, or something. EDIT: I'm late to this party, it seems. Darn it for starting a reply and then being interrupted at work. But even still, the info is solid. Just keep reading and you'll be all good.
__________________ 2010 CBM Mazdaspeed3 w/Tech Package 240 whp/282 ft-lb @ CP-e Mustang Dyno [8/3/13] 271 whp/314 ft-lb @ Moore Automotive DynoJet [10/19/13] Cobb AP // JBR Stage II PowerPath Intake // GFB Respons BOV // AutoTech Internals // Sure Race Pipe (Cullen Eats Penises) // CPe TMIC JBR 88a RMM // JBR 70a TMM // JBR EGR Block Off Plate // Damond OCC // NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs // JBR Bypass Valve Hose // SU Boost Tubes JBR Spherical Heavy Shift Knob // CorkSport interior LEDs // JBR License Plate Frame Mod // G2 Black Caliper Paint // 35% tint On deck: VG Sharkfin Antenna ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I personally went with this kit for my Gen2 minus the core. I was able to get just the piping kit and bpv for $320 and picked up the Treadstone TR8 core from edge super cheap when they had the Halloween sale. I would definitely recommend going with a Treadstone if you have any plans on BT or any decent power. I live in Houston and am always in traffic on the way to work and this helps.
__________________ 1993 S/C Miata (TOTALED)2013 Mazdaspeed3 w/ Tech Package 93 Octane w/ a splash of E 436 WHP/ 406 Torque Engine: ATP GTX3076r, 3' Long Catless Downpipe (wrapped) || Cobb Accessport V3 (Freek tuned), 3 port boost controller || HTP 3.5 intake system || Bosch 3 bar map sensor, Bitwise Motorsports Bosch MAP Sensor Connector || CX Racing piping || Treadstone tr8 intercooler core || Synapse DV BPV || Cp-e Turbo manifold(Ceramic coated and wrapped), Tranny and Passenger mount || Kozmic Dump pipe (Ceramic coated and wrapped), EGR block off plates, OCC || Tial MVR 44mm Waste gate || Corksport 70 duro RMM, CBE || Autotech Internals || Ported & Polished Intake Manifold || Rotella T6 Suspension: TB Performance Traction Bar V2 Looks: Corksport Hood strut kit || Rally Armor Mudd Flaps || SU Blacked out Badges || Plasti dipped Fog Bezels || Nextmod Front Lip |
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__________________ Tuned with by ![]() K1 Rods//Wiseco Pistons//CX Racing FMIC//JBR Widepath Intake//Custom 3" TBE//Grimmspeed EBCS//Forge BPV//JBR SSP//JBR RSB//JBR Side Mounts//ISC-N! coilovers//JBR BSD and Baffle//Sure TIG Set//Sure R3 RMM//KMD Internals//XS Power Exhaust Manifold//P&P Intake Manifold//Fidanza Flywheel//EM Organic Compound Clutch//GTX3071//DVC30 Meth Kit//3 Gauge Pod.....415WHP....so far!! | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The core on the CX is set up a bit different(fins and what not) than any real quality. This is what I have read and I had the monies to get a Treadstone along with the piping kit. Meth is definitely going to keep you cooler so you may be able to get away with it. If you have a AP watch your BATs on Pulls and idles. Heatsoak was a bitch for me due to stop and go traffic. Another note too, look on ebay for some thermal wrap. I picked up a roll of Titanium for about 30 bucks shipped.
__________________ 1993 S/C Miata (TOTALED)2013 Mazdaspeed3 w/ Tech Package 93 Octane w/ a splash of E 436 WHP/ 406 Torque Engine: ATP GTX3076r, 3' Long Catless Downpipe (wrapped) || Cobb Accessport V3 (Freek tuned), 3 port boost controller || HTP 3.5 intake system || Bosch 3 bar map sensor, Bitwise Motorsports Bosch MAP Sensor Connector || CX Racing piping || Treadstone tr8 intercooler core || Synapse DV BPV || Cp-e Turbo manifold(Ceramic coated and wrapped), Tranny and Passenger mount || Kozmic Dump pipe (Ceramic coated and wrapped), EGR block off plates, OCC || Tial MVR 44mm Waste gate || Corksport 70 duro RMM, CBE || Autotech Internals || Ported & Polished Intake Manifold || Rotella T6 Suspension: TB Performance Traction Bar V2 Looks: Corksport Hood strut kit || Rally Armor Mudd Flaps || SU Blacked out Badges || Plasti dipped Fog Bezels || Nextmod Front Lip |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Buy a treadstone, make your own piping. Save money and win harder.
__________________ Blue Pu. "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you." |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think I'll run the cx for a bit but order a trl8 when it comes to spring next year.
__________________ Tuned with by ![]() K1 Rods//Wiseco Pistons//CX Racing FMIC//JBR Widepath Intake//Custom 3" TBE//Grimmspeed EBCS//Forge BPV//JBR SSP//JBR RSB//JBR Side Mounts//ISC-N! coilovers//JBR BSD and Baffle//Sure TIG Set//Sure R3 RMM//KMD Internals//XS Power Exhaust Manifold//P&P Intake Manifold//Fidanza Flywheel//EM Organic Compound Clutch//GTX3071//DVC30 Meth Kit//3 Gauge Pod.....415WHP....so far!! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score my route was intake + AP (COBB stage 1 OTS) internals + etune downpipe/racepipe TIP fmic and idk if it was placebo but the FMIC made a huge, noticebale difference for my car. kept my car over 75 degrees cooler during a 2-3 pull.
__________________ TurboXS: Downpipe, Racepipe, Catback, FMIC C-PE: RMM, TIP, Nano Intake AutoTech Internals, Custom Tuned |
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Stupid question, but where does the TIP connect to other than the turbo? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The TIP connects the turbo to the flex section/tube coming off the back of the MAF sensor housing. With a SRI, it's Inlet ->short, straight silicone -> MAF sensor housing -> silicone bend -> TIP
__________________ 2009 CWP MS3 GT Rally Armor Flaps | Gen Pu Wheels | JBR 80d v1 RMM/RSB/TIGs/Boost & Bypass Tubes TWM Full Replacement Shifter | CS SRI/TIP/Skid Plate | Koni FSD 4045 | Matt Damon OCC | Cobb DP/AP | CP-e TMIC/HPFP PTP VVT Actuator/Injector Seals & Studs | Samco Rad Hoses | Redline Leather Shift & E-Brake Boot BNR S3 | Stratified Boost Dial |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah I have a modified CPE Nano intake for my TurboXS front mount. Need a more permanent solution though.
__________________ TurboXS: Downpipe, Racepipe, Catback, FMIC C-PE: RMM, TIP, Nano Intake AutoTech Internals, Custom Tuned Last edited by jreams; 11-13-2013 at 08:01 AM. Reason: Typo |
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