![]() | ![]() |
![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() |
|
| |||||||
|
Welcome to Mazdaspeed Forums . You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. *When you join MSF as a registered user, there will be No Ads. *Registered Members get access to the Off Topic Area of the Forum *Registered Members have an opportunity to upgrade their accounts to VIP, which brings a host of goddies for supporting MSF such as Raffles, Additional Forum Access, More PM Storage, The ability to upload more Images and many other enhancements. *Registered members also get access to the live chat box! |
![]() |
| | | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
![]() | | #1 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Garden Grove, CA
Posts: 3
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Then began to sputter and misfire if I barely put ant pressure on the gas peddle it would go through the RPMS but if I pushed it any harder it would Pop and Sputter and so I changed my spark plugs and it then it threw a code for a random misfire. So then I changed the coil packs I ordered the 2.3 liter ones and it sent me 2.5 liter ones I checked them and they looked exactly the same and even had same numbers on them so I put them in and then the car began to run better it only sputter at higher Rpms and then 2 day later it died on the freeway and wouldn't start. I am stumped at this and need elp. Thanks |
| | |
![]() | | #2 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Elizabeth, NJ
Posts: 3,575
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 3180 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 7,265
Thanked 6,117 Times in 1,922 Posts
Groans: 665
Groaned at 76 Times in 40 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score What plugs did you use? Did you gap them properly? They need to be between 0.026-0.028" |
| | |
![]() | | #3 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Garden Grove, CA
Posts: 3
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I believe I used same plugs as stock and I did not gap them. But could that make the car shut off? |
| | |
![]() | | #4 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Elizabeth, NJ
Posts: 3,575
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 3180 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 7,265
Thanked 6,117 Times in 1,922 Posts
Groans: 665
Groaned at 76 Times in 40 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
If the plugs aren't gapped properly, the fuel in the cylinders will not undergo complete combustion and wet fouling will occur quite quickly. Just to be clear, the engine will crank, just not start correct? | |
| | |
![]() | | #5 | ![]() |
| Banned ![]() Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Space Mountain, Honey
Posts: 313
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() Thanks: 142
Thanked 44 Times in 36 Posts
Groans: 30
Groaned at 132 Times in 57 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score fuel pump? |
| | |
![]() | | #6 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Garden Grove, CA
Posts: 3
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I just changed a battery and alternator on the car and it is throwing a code U2064 it isn't putting a CEL up but still reads when AP is plugged in and it Runs and drives sputters at high Rpms and then shuts off. The car has full bolt ons and Cobb fuel pump. I am seriously very over the car at the moment |
| | |
![]() | | #7 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: MI (near the edge of the earth)
Posts: 4
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score JamesJohnson227 You should either go back to those original coil packs or go all out and get some, such as the AEM Coil Packs (you would need 4 of those) and Ignition control module. The thing about the ones you purchased is that the modules are built to the top of the pack and spark timing is designed for the ECM for the 2.3 or 2.5 as well as many other minute differences. The root cause of your problem was that they sprayed water into your spark plug pods which probably leaked past the plug rings and into the cylinders. Hopefully there isn't a leak in the valve cover gasket (which is not uncommon) and a significant amount of water didn't get into the oil. I would change the oil to be safe. That is what I think is the most likely cause of the problem. One other issue may be that the water damaged the VICS or Air Idle Control Valve (about $300). |
| | |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| |