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| MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Wheels & Tires HaveMazdaSpeed 3 - Wheels & Tires - Have a question about wheels or tires? Need a calculator to figure out offsets? We have them in here |
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__________________ 94 M MS6 IS350 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Why bother with 9.5" wheels and then run a tire that will fit on an 8" wheel.
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I got these for track use and wanted to run a 245 or 255. But when I test fitted them they cleared every thing good no problems my fear is if I go with a 245 or 255 the tire will rub on the hub knuckle. So I came here to see if any one has any advice or runs the same rim specs?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Your issue will be the rear fenders. My wheels are 18x8" +48 and even with a only a 1" drop and the fenders rolled I would rub occasionally with 235/40/18. There are a few people running wide setups, but they're using fender flares.
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score O shit so I was worried about the wrong side it's the rear fenders that are gonna give me problems. I wonder since I'll be on a smaller rim if it'll give me a little more room to run 245? I saw a guy running 255 on 17×9 +48 offset with spacers on the front only I wonder how he got those to work.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 12mm = almost a half inch more poke, plus his wheels were narrower, so he had nearly an inch more room than you do.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I didn't even snap about that my offset pushes my wheel out more flush with fender witch is the look I was going for. So if I wanna go wider than 235s I'm gonna need a good fender pull or fender flares. Any one ever run a taller tire than a 40 series like a 45? Is a 45 tall tire to tall for are cars I saw on the ultimate will they fit thread that the most common was a 40 tall tire.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i thought most track guys build around a tire, not a wheel?
__________________ 94 M MS6 IS350 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I was building around Hoosiers 245/45 17 but found a good deal on these wheels for black Friday figured they would work with just a fender roll but I was wrong
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__________________ 2006 MS6 sri/tbe/cpe diff mount/TS bpv/AT internals/jbr motor mounts/COBB acessport/stratified ots map/act 6 puck Last edited by mazda_speed_6; 12-18-2018 at 12:22 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No. You need to get wheels that fit. IMO a 235 is too narrow for a 9.5" wheel, and even that will still have issues with a +36 offset.
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Got my car aligned at big O and the alignment guy had never seen adjustable ball joints before so there main mechanic came to talk to me and wanted to charge me $90 a hour to adjust the ball joint and said it would take him a couple of hours to do it so I told them just fix the toe on the car. the camber settings are pretty even on all four tires my question is do you guys think these setting will kill my tires fast? I know the toe would of killed the tires quick but I really don't know the effect of camber I plan to take the car to another shop that specializes in race cars/lowered cars and won't give me problems about the SPC ball joints but for know I have to drive around like this
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Toe eats tires, the camber will be ok in the short term, but should be fixed. Hours to adjust balljoints is bullshit. If you have the standard SPCs the max range is only +1.5 deg which would be about perfect in the front. Why didn't they fix your rear camber? The oem adjustment has enough range to get you back to spec from your starting point.
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks Last edited by SSinstaller; 08-21-2019 at 10:03 PM. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Right it took me about 1 and half hour to install them I'm sure they just saw it as a way to wax me for some cash. I didn't even waste my time arguing with them I could tell nothing was gonna make the guy admit it wouldnt take a couple of hours. Guaranteed I would of spent 300+ dollars for that alignment if I would of let him adjust it.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Why didn't they fix your rear camber? The oem adjustment has enough range to get you back to spec from your starting point. They have to release the tension on the lateral link. Then adjust the cam bolts for the camber adjustment. Then set the toe with the lateral link.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I'm assuming they didn't know how, the alignment mechanic tells me were gonna pull your car off the rack it's done so I go inside to pay and the lady at the front desk tells me they couldn't make any adjustments to the rear because its a solid axle. At that point I said these people are fuckin stupid so I told her it's not a solid axle the sheet shows they fixed the toe, so I told her since you guys only fixed toe and didn't touch camber can I get some kind of discount they cut the price down 20 dallors.
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