How-to: MS3 Pivot Shaft Seal, Bearing, Breather Replacement

[DynoBunny]

I know there was a write up on how to do this, but I think this being a little more thorough would help people who are less confident.

“jrzy ms6” did the original write up for the MS6. The MS3 seems to be easier.

First I ordered the part #s specified by “leo766” which are:
Bearing - A60217204
Breather - A60117530
Seal - A60117131

I’d like to thank Avondale Mazda @ Avondale Mazda Parts for the parts. Great prices and much lower shipping compared to some competitors.

Did this on my 2007 with 126,000 miles. It just started gushing one day after I had to slam on the brakes. If I knew it was a problem I would have done it before hand, guess I should frequent the forums more. Thanks to “jtaylor” for pointing me in the right direction.

ColdasFuk

Note: A lot of these steps could be skipped depending on what you’re replacing and how you like to work. I’m not in a rush when I work on my car so I was thorough and clean.

Here’s the parts:
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Here’s the tools I used in case you want to have them ready:
(You don’t need them all but I like to make things easy)
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I jacked the car up, I’m tall:
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Remove whatever intake you have:
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Pop off the shift linkage. I used two small flat heads on either side.
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Take out the two 12mm bolts holding the shift mechanism on:
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The shorter bolt goes in the back:
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I think this is the clip some people were referencing that could slide off into the trans. Since you take this part off before you take the pivot shaft out, just make sure it’s accounted for:
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Next take out the other three 12mm bolts that hold the shaft in:
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This 14mm bolt is has the guide pin for the shaft so it needs to come out to pull the assembly out:
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This is self explanatory. I used a chisel, just stick it in the top and pull to the side. Works every time for me, and I feel safer than beating and prying on it:
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The inside, keep in mind you’ll need to fit the pivot shaft into that bearing in the bottom. It’s easy to get back in if you realize what you’re doing:
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Don’t get anything in there, you’ll need to clean that surface sometime before the final assembly. I use a razor and drag it away from the blade. Also put a rag in there to catch any accidental drops:
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Pull the assembly up and out, you’ll need to tip it forward a bit to get past the intake mount. Lay it down on something clean:
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See how the guide pin works:
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This pin has to come out. There’s two sides; one’s beveled, the other isn’t. This is the side it will go back in:
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This is the side you’ll tap it out from. I used a 5/32 punch:
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Whenever I take things apart I mark them with a paint marker, good habit. Although this only goes one way, so you don't need to, but it’s still handy:
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Slide the piece off the shaft and then remove the boot from the plate:
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This is the piece that has all the parts you’ll replace. Here is the seal:
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The bearing:
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The seal came out really easy, I used my finger. If you need to get a screwdriver, just don’t maul the wall inside:
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I put it on two 2x4s and used a 19mm deep socket with a hammer to tap the bearing out. Also used a pair of vice grips to hold the socket, I don’t have the best aim with a hammer and it’s easier to hold. Always use safety glasses when hammering:
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Make sure everything is very clean when you put the new bearing in. I applied some synthetic grease (mobil1) to the bearing to help it slide in. If you have a bearing press, great use it. If not a clean cloth, wooden board, and hammer will work just as good. Just take it slow, tap it in a little and make sure it’s straight. Once it’s in as far as you can get it with the wooden board, use the 19mm to go the rest of the way:
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Turn it over and make sure you’re in all the way to the lip. Don’t beat it in too hard or you’ll damage it:
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The seal goes in this way. I didn’t need to hit it in, just pushed it in evenly with my fingers. Again don’t push it in too far, just past the edge:
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I used that same 5/32 punch turned around to get the breather out:
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A 13mm deep will go over the vent but catch the lip to hammer it back in:
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Slide the cover back onto the shaft and attach the boot:
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If this piece came apart, it’s no big deal, it just slides over it:
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You can see how this only goes two ways, but if you do it the wrong way the pin hole won’t line up:
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When you put the pin back, hammer it in from the beveled side. Also the pin should have a slight taper. Put the smaller end in first. It should be just flush with the back side:
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I used Permatex gasket maker. It’s made to resist gear oil, specifically the additives for LSDs. Whether this is bullshit, idk. Be aware that this stuff takes 24hr to cure, you may want to opt for a different kind if you can’t be down that long:
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Make a small bead around. I go around the bolt holes as well. Keep the stuff to the outside edge since it’ll squish in:
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Here’s the big deal, put this mother fucker back in. This is how it should look when you’re ready. Make sure there’s NOTHING down in the hole. Be careful, don’t hit the sealant on anything. Remember you’ll need to have a slight angle to get it past that intake mount. There’s also that hole that you’ll need to line the shaft up in; it’s directly centered. If it gets to the bottom and won’t go the last inch, turn the shift mechanism a little back and forth and it will go. Be patient, be cool, you’ll get it in:
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Once it’s in put those three 12mm bolts back, but don’t tighten them down yet:
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Put the 14mm bolt in:
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Put the other piece of the shift mechanism in. See how it goes:
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Put the other two 12mm bolts in and tighten the four main ones in a criss cross pattern. I don’t have the torque specs but I did them around 15-20 ft/lbs:
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That’s it!

I took it for a hard 50 mile drive today after the sealant was finished drying and zero leaks.

I’d also like to note that I’m glad I did the bearing. I noticed a really nice difference in the shifter, it felt a lot smoother going between the gears, especially side to side between 2-3 and 4-5. I’m sure that made that difference.