Test pipe spring bolts (torque spec)

[mhebert2001]

There have some great write ups on MSF regarding the installation of testpipes, so thanks to all that took the time to share their stories.

There was one small piece that I couldn’t find, and that is a torque spec on the spring loaded bolts. My assumption is you tighten them by feel and visual. Is that the correct assumption?

Thanks!

[CCC]

I've been told to tighten them so there is no more than 1mm space between each coil on the spring.

[leon78]

They are not big....wrist tight.

[mhebert2001]

Thanks!

[captain slow]

Originally Posted by CCC I've been told to tighten them so there is no more than 1mm space between each coil on the spring.

Corksport has this in their instructions so I'd do that

[LumberJack]

Originally Posted by captain slow Corksport has this in their instructions so I'd do that

Agreed, that's about how tight i wrenched mine too!

[mhebert2001]

Originally Posted by captain slow Corksport has this in their instructions so I'd do that

They do, but there is no mention of torque specs for the bolts I am referring to. Unless I missed it.

[silvapain]

A benefit of springs behind the nuts is that you don't have to be accurate with torque specs. I'd say the CorkSport instructions are sufficient.


Tapadatass

[SLOWHATCH]

I'd say that it probably doesn't matter much, but I'm in for a rough estimate on recommended torque. I've ran mine both ways and there was no noticable difference, but I just like to have stuff torqued properly whenever possible.

[captain slow]

Originally Posted by mhebert2001 They do, but there is no mention of torque specs for the bolts I am referring to. Unless I missed it.

There is no mention of torque specs just the 1mm gap.

Torquing something with a spring involved can be tricky and may not be uniform for every vehicle. What may take you 10 ft lbs to do could take someone on another car 15 ft lbs for example. Thats why they just say tighten so there is about a 1mm gap.

You could test it for us!

[CWP_MS3]

Unless its something important... meh...

[mhebert2001]

Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH I'd say that it probably doesn't matter much, but I'm in for a rough estimate on recommended torque. I've ran mine both ways and there was no noticable difference, but I just like to have stuff torqued properly whenever possible.

Well it is on. I found the front bolts had a well-defined stopping point, which left a nice little gap between the coils on the spring, so that was easy! The back however was a different story. With the backs you could just keep tightening them all the way down if you wanted (which I didn’t).

I just took a guess and went with it, hope for no leaks.

One thing that was interesting was the supplied rear donut gasket. UR comes with a new donut gasket for the rear of the TP, but not the front.

It was a lot smaller than the Mazda supplied one, and I almost didn’t even see it when I was installing. I wasn’t sure if I should remove it and replace it with the stock one, or just use it.

Long story short, I just used the one supplied from UR.

[qweedqwag]

I was worried when I installed the corksport racepipe, I seems way to loose, I tightened a little more than instructed, then I shook the hell out of it to try and get it to seat, seemed to work, the instructions say to recheck in a thousand miles sounds like good advice.

[mhebert2001]

Did the CS come with any donut gaskets or were you to re-use the stock ones?

I had a big gap when I put mine. It made it super easy to install, but I was a little worried that it might leak.

[rfinkle2]

I tried to leave some space in between the spring as instructed, but was leaking @ the joint.

The only way I could get my test pipe to seal properly was to tighten the springs all of the way down.

I now have no space in the springs and have been using the pipe that way for 10k + miles with no problem.

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 I tried to leave some space in between the spring as instructed, but was leaking @ the joint. The only way I could get my test pipe to seal properly was to tighten the springs all of the way down. I now have no space in the springs and have been using the pipe that way for 10k + miles with no problem.

True story! I Just said screw it and tight is right. Fully mounted so there can't be THAT much movement for it to matter!


Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS!

[Jhornbrook]

seconded ^^^^^^^ i tightened my shit all the way and it works fine. just get it to seal is all thats important.

[mhebert2001]

That’s interesting that so many had to tighten it to the point there was no gap in the springs. Did anyone just try re-using the stock rear donut gasket to take up some of the slack? It seems like that may be the answer.

I can only assume mine is not leaking. I don’t hear any air pissing out at idle or while revving it. But under load with the motor moving around maybe it does leak.

With an intake, RMM, and TP it is louder to point where you would never be able to hear leaking while driving. Next oil change I will do a visual, and look for any soot around the joints.

On a different note, I was going to post this as a new question, but maybe it is best here. I am a getting a LOT more vibration now with the TP, especially within certain RPM ranges. I am trying to figure out if is due to lack of a resonator in the TP, or that I need to tighten or loosen the bolts holding it. It has also produced a rattling somewhere outside the car. Might be a heat shield, but it sounds like it is around the muffler more.

I only have 6K miles and nothing was rattling before the TP install.
Any ideas on how to remedy that, aside from putting the old cat back on! LOL

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by mhebert2001 That’s interesting that so many had to tighten it to the point there was no gap in the springs. Did anyone just try re-using the stock rear donut gasket to take up some of the slack? It seems like that may be the answer. I can only assume mine is not leaking. I don’t hear any air pissing out at idle or while revving it. But under load with the motor moving around maybe it does leak. With an intake, RMM, and TP it is louder to point where you would never be able to hear leaking while driving. Next oil change I will do a visual, and look for any soot around the joints. On a different note, I was going to post this as a new question, but maybe it is best here. I am a getting a LOT more vibration now with the TP, especially within certain RPM ranges. I am trying to figure out if is due to lack of a resonator in the TP, or that I need to tighten or loosen the bolts holding it. It has also produced a rattling somewhere outside the car. Might be a heat shield, but it sounds like it is around the muffler more. I only have 6K miles and nothing was rattling before the TP install. Any ideas on how to remedy that, aside from putting the old cat back on! LOL

Could be the test pipe rattling on the cross member piece towards the front of the car. If that is the case you may need to get new hangers.


Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS!

[mhebert2001]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 Could be the test pipe rattling on the cross member piece towards the front of the car. If that is the case you may need to get new hangers. Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS!

Thanks. I will start with that then. So would you say that added vibration is not typical with a TP install?

[anavrinIV]

Didn't I tell you just to put it on as it was?

Unless you bought a different one than what I gave you...

The one I gave you was a corksport 80mm. The donut gasket on it was my stock one that I had to tear up to make it fit (this is what happens when you're sold a pipe that isn't the one you're told you're buying). That gasket has to be there, the stock one doesn't fit, and it does seal perfectly (at least it did on my car for almost 15k miles).

[socks]

i like to consider the germans when torquing stuff like this.... "guten tight"

there is a bead on the bolt. seat that up against the flange, and get it good and tight. easy as that.

[mhebert2001]

Originally Posted by socks i like to consider the germans when torquing stuff like this.... "guten tight" there is a bead on the bolt. seat that up against the flange, and get it good and tight. easy as that.

I dont think that is true with the UR supplied rear bolts/nuts. I think mine are thread all the way (look like bolts from Home Depot)

I was going to re-use the stock bolts and nuts but another MSF member advised against it.

[mhebert2001]

Originally Posted by anavrinIV Didn't I tell you just to put it on as it was? Unless you bought a different one than what I gave you... The one I gave you was a corksport 80mm. The donut gasket on it was my stock one that I had to tear up to make it fit (this is what happens when you're sold a pipe that isn't the one you're told you're buying). That gasket has to be there, the stock one doesn't fit, and it does seal perfectly (at least it did on my car for almost 15k miles).

Hey man!

I have been meaning to call you. I was going to use the CS with missing hangers you gave me but decided against it. I know you didn’t have any issues with it, but we are only talking a $150 for a new one, so that’s what I decided to do.

BTW, I am hanging on to yours so I can get it back to you. I figured you might know someone else that could use it.

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by mhebert2001 Hey man! I have been meaning to call you. I was going to use the CS with missing hangers you gave me but decided against it. I know you didn’t have any issues with it, but we are only talking a $150 for a new one, so that’s what I decided to do. BTW, I am hanging on to yours so I can get it back to you. I figured you might know someone else that could use it.

I still have the hangers if you want them.

Really though, just throw it up for the price of shipping here, I really don't care. It's just more crap for the girl to bitch about. Either that or put it up in the nator NC section same deal. Or better yet put it on your wife's car, you know that isn't staying stock long.

[mhebert2001]

Originally Posted by anavrinIV I still have the hangers if you want them. Really though, just throw it up for the price of shipping here, I really don't care. It's just more crap for the girl to bitch about. Either that or put it up in the nator NC section same deal. Or better yet put it on your wife's car, you know that isn't staying stock long.

Then what I will do is hold on to it until after mine is Stratified. I submitted my baseline MAF and WOT logs to Alex on Friday. Only if everything works out well for my car will I mod hers.

By hangers, you mean the pieces you cut off, right?

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by mhebert2001 Then what I will do is hold on to it until after mine is Stratified. I submitted my baseline MAF and WOT logs to Alex on Friday. Only if everything works out well for my car will I mod hers. By hangers, you mean the pieces you cut off, right?

yep, those. they're sitting in a box of car parts in a closet. Not sure why I kept them, they just made it back into the box and never left.