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(Thread Starter) | Neutral : +1 score 5.61 mm .221 inches 7/32 inch OK, so I've been testing a potential fix for sticking spill valve issue (specifically, the button valve under the spill valve), and so far there have been zero issues with it. I started testing this mod on the 27th, and since that date (three weeks ago, tomorrow), I have put probably more than 1k miles on the car, and done two track days (where the engine/pump sees the most strenuous and torturous conditions imaginable). When I pulled the spring out a few hours ago, it was slightly sticky, but that wouldn't matter much as the coils will never touch; otherwise it looked fine. 3 Weeks post upgrade: Before trim/install: Close up comparison: Trimmed and seated: Some quick notes about my installation of the new spring: 1. It is slightly stiffer than the stock spring 2. Mine is cut significantly longer (probably close to 20%) than the stock spring, which can be annoying to get the button to seat properly prior to spill valve install 3. I installed the spring with the tight coils at the button, which would technically cause higher inertia within the button itself; if this was going to be an issue, it would have presented itself as slight pressure loss. Needless to say, no such loss noticed. ![]() Questions? Comments? Concerns?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Subbed for results. I'm on pump gas right now, but looking into this when I go back to E85. Tapadatass
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Done multiple track days, no issues as of yet. Last time I pulled the spring, it looked like new. Slightly sticky, but nearly new. Perhaps I'll pull the spring today and take a couple quick pics of it for the sake of the thread.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Subbed. Tired of cleaning my spill valve once a week. I picked up the spring and may throw it in this weekend to test. Now if only I could read my fuel level which stopped working when I hit 25k miles on the car with full E85. Thanks Enki!
__________________ 2010 Black Mica MS3 (Daily Driver) - self-tuned with the help of Lex www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/forum/f426/k06-log-86437/K04 Hybrid, Nitto NT01s, JMF Manifold, 4 Port Meth, 100% E85, 3 Bar MAP, HTP 3.5, Cobb DP, ETS TMIC, KMD Internals, PTP RV, OCC, Forge BPV, CP-E Mounts, JBR Thermal Intake & Throttle Body Gaskets, JBR Shifter Plate & Bushings 2006 Mustang GT - www.vortechsuperchargers.com/global_item.php?gik=348 Built Motor, 675 RWHP 560 lb/ft T-Trim 21PSI Non-Intercooled 1993 Mustang LX - www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiCCvodp6CU Budget 349 Stroker |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Switch to a tank of pure pump gas; that should fix your fuel sender and help clean out the pump.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I did that a few months ago and the fuel level went to a max of 50% and was never accurate. Every morning it would reward me with a new fuel level value. After switching back to e85 it reads 0 all the time. Doesn't bother me too much. I just fill up at about 180 miles on the trip.
__________________ 2010 Black Mica MS3 (Daily Driver) - self-tuned with the help of Lex www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/forum/f426/k06-log-86437/K04 Hybrid, Nitto NT01s, JMF Manifold, 4 Port Meth, 100% E85, 3 Bar MAP, HTP 3.5, Cobb DP, ETS TMIC, KMD Internals, PTP RV, OCC, Forge BPV, CP-E Mounts, JBR Thermal Intake & Throttle Body Gaskets, JBR Shifter Plate & Bushings 2006 Mustang GT - www.vortechsuperchargers.com/global_item.php?gik=348 Built Motor, 675 RWHP 560 lb/ft T-Trim 21PSI Non-Intercooled 1993 Mustang LX - www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiCCvodp6CU Budget 349 Stroker |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Cut your next tank of 91 with a gallon of naphtha (lighter fluid), or just toss it in there when you're about due for a top off and let the car sit for a bit. It's what I now use to clean the pump, as it pretty much instantly eats the sticky off of everything in the pump. NOTHING else works like the lighter fluid does; seafoam, MMO, pump gas, *NOTHING.* Next best thing was pump gas, but I still had to scrub using a toothbrush; with lighter fluid, a gentle rub with my fingers did the trick if I didn't want to wait a few minutes and let it soak.
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__________________ 2010 Black Mica MS3 (Daily Driver) - self-tuned with the help of Lex www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/forum/f426/k06-log-86437/K04 Hybrid, Nitto NT01s, JMF Manifold, 4 Port Meth, 100% E85, 3 Bar MAP, HTP 3.5, Cobb DP, ETS TMIC, KMD Internals, PTP RV, OCC, Forge BPV, CP-E Mounts, JBR Thermal Intake & Throttle Body Gaskets, JBR Shifter Plate & Bushings 2006 Mustang GT - www.vortechsuperchargers.com/global_item.php?gik=348 Built Motor, 675 RWHP 560 lb/ft T-Trim 21PSI Non-Intercooled 1993 Mustang LX - www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiCCvodp6CU Budget 349 Stroker | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Looks like pulling the spill valve will have to wait...
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So final results are in, and it DOES cure the button valve sticking but does NOT cure the spill valve from sticking. I'm working another angle on the spill valve right now; currently waiting for a sample to be created/ship. Also working another angle for dealing with the black death, but progress on that front is slow.
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__________________ Speed 6 Gone for 3+ years and still not happy about it 2007 Speed 3. JBR 3" WP. AP. Autotechs. Full Maize. CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Rubber Filled OEM TMM, Nator'd TP, Moog's and DM SSP Enki - "High mixes of corn = all the wastegate all the time for great justice." |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My pump is working now the spring was weak .. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score In case anyone was wondering, I'm still running the spring pictured in the OP without issue (over a year later now), so it would seem that this isn't going to *hurt* anything.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Still using the same spring from OP. Never changed, but it has compressed slightly since as I no longer have issues with the button falling over when reinstalling the spill valve. Still in great shape, since last check.
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