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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I have a SRI with TIP, test pipe with resonator delete, stock DP, stock CBE, stock HPFP. Keeping my face planted on the accessport live feed, I slowly started some 4th gear pulls, to my surprise, the fuel pressure was in the 1750-1850's and never dipped below that... Almost too good to be true. Boost is around 18-18.5 psi, AFR's in the mid 11's tappering down to 11 near redline, injector duty cycle never goes over 67%, zero KR I went back to the stage 1 map afterwards just to be safe while I get the downpipe and HPFP internals sorted, but I thought I'd share my story here. How is it possible the car is taking stage 2 like a boss when I've seen horror stories from others? Do you guys think it's safe to run stage 2 on my car judging from these readings?
__________________ | 2010 Mazdaspeed with Tech Pkg / 18x8.5" Enkei T6S w/ Nitto NT05 245/40 | Cobb AccessPORT / Self Tuned | Ultimate Racing Turboback Exhaust (Catted, Non-resonated) / Ultimate Racing FMIC | Grimmspeed EBCS / Turbosmart Dual Port BPV / Denso ITV22 / Autotech Internals / JBR EGR Delete / Corksport OCC | JBR Chrome-Moly 88A RMM / Corksport TMM Insert / Corksport Shifter Bushings | Prosport Halo Boost Gauge / Corksport LED DRL and Foglight Bulbs / Rally Armor Mudflaps |
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| Police - Grammarhead ![]() Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Metro Detroit, MI
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| You have no way of knowing unless you're monitoring HPFP actual pressure as well.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score That's what I was monitoring at 1st, when I saw the HPFP fuel pressure was good, I started to monitor other readings as well.
__________________ | 2010 Mazdaspeed with Tech Pkg / 18x8.5" Enkei T6S w/ Nitto NT05 245/40 | Cobb AccessPORT / Self Tuned | Ultimate Racing Turboback Exhaust (Catted, Non-resonated) / Ultimate Racing FMIC | Grimmspeed EBCS / Turbosmart Dual Port BPV / Denso ITV22 / Autotech Internals / JBR EGR Delete / Corksport OCC | JBR Chrome-Moly 88A RMM / Corksport TMM Insert / Corksport Shifter Bushings | Prosport Halo Boost Gauge / Corksport LED DRL and Foglight Bulbs / Rally Armor Mudflaps |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Too risky. flash back to a safer map until you get internals. It might run okay for a short amount of time and before you know it, you'll blow your a hit sky high.
__________________ 2012 black mica MS3 ; 3.5 HTP/ Catless DP/ AT HPFP/ APV2/ FMIC/ GFB BOv/ 3" CBE/ RMM/ XXR 530(18x9 +33)/ NT05 245/40/18/ 3bar map/ 3 port EBCS/ bnrs3/ DO stg2 dvc30/ REAR swaybar/ EBC Yellow/ CS Inj seals/ PNP IM/ Manley H-Beam/ Manley platinum piston 87.5/ soon...... PI+ BNRs6+ 44mm TIAL+ ACT 6 puck ![]() E35 meth d012 26psi ![]() 420/451 self tuned/built |
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In any case, you're playing a very dangerous game. I would strongly recommend sticking with a Stage 1-style map until you have HPFP internals installed.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Don't look at this as a "is it safe" type of thing, look at it as "do I want to baby sit my hpfp ever time I step on the gas" type of thing. You might have the one in a hundred pump that keeps up, until stuff gets a little dirtier, a little hotter, maybe some gas issues. Will that be the day you see it go? Maybe. Maybe not. Why worry? Motors are expensive.
__________________ -2012 CWP MS3 - - COBB AP V2b - Autotech HPFP Internals - JBR 3.0 WP - CP-E TMIC - UR TP - NGK ILTR6A-8G # 3787 plugs - EGR delete - Bosch 3-bar TMap - DO WMI 50/50 - JBR RMM 88a - JBR PMM 70a + JBR TMM 70a - JBR OCC S2 - JBR SSP - JBR SSB - JBR RSB - - Block8head single defrost pod - VDO Vision Boost Gauge - Maisonvi Custom Stainless Steel Ball Shift Knob - - Self Tuning 91 octane of fail with 50/50 WMI of win - |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Hush For This Useful Post: | cshunter (06-02-2013) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It may work while it is warmer out, but in cooler temperatures, I bet your fuel pressure will drop. Mine did with only an intake/TIP in the winter months.
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed6 FreekTune | 91 | JBR 3", PMM & RMM | CS Racepipe, TMIC & TMM Inserts | Autotechs ![]() |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to sidekick For This Useful Post: | Hush (06-01-2013) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I understand what you guys are saying, hence why my initial post also states I went back to stage 1 until I sort that stuff out (I'm also scared something might go wrong) I don't wanna blow the car up either lol, I just wanted a few opinions. Thanks for the input so far
__________________ | 2010 Mazdaspeed with Tech Pkg / 18x8.5" Enkei T6S w/ Nitto NT05 245/40 | Cobb AccessPORT / Self Tuned | Ultimate Racing Turboback Exhaust (Catted, Non-resonated) / Ultimate Racing FMIC | Grimmspeed EBCS / Turbosmart Dual Port BPV / Denso ITV22 / Autotech Internals / JBR EGR Delete / Corksport OCC | JBR Chrome-Moly 88A RMM / Corksport TMM Insert / Corksport Shifter Bushings | Prosport Halo Boost Gauge / Corksport LED DRL and Foglight Bulbs / Rally Armor Mudflaps |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Can you bare back a hooker and not catch anything... Sure. Can you do it multiple times before you catch something...sure. But sooner rather then later you're going to end up with some shit. It's something that has been proven and explained time and again. No need for another thread from a brownie who thinks he has a unicorn.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I don't think I have a unicorn, in fact far from it, at 65000 miles on the odometer the car has most likely seen better days, I bought it second hand and it had 59k on the clock. Yes it's risky, somewhat stupid, I knew that beforehand. I've done the research, I know what I need to get so it doesn't blow into a million pieces, I simply wanted to try this once, for 20 mins and share my story. I do have 5 years of payments left on it, wouldn't want to lose it now. I'm sure you've heard this type of thing hundreds of times from other noobies and I appologize if I'm annoying you. But, I'm no noob to the world of turbocharged engines and tuning. Just on this forum since I've never owned a speed before. But thanks for your input! Just wanted to have a bit of fun.
__________________ | 2010 Mazdaspeed with Tech Pkg / 18x8.5" Enkei T6S w/ Nitto NT05 245/40 | Cobb AccessPORT / Self Tuned | Ultimate Racing Turboback Exhaust (Catted, Non-resonated) / Ultimate Racing FMIC | Grimmspeed EBCS / Turbosmart Dual Port BPV / Denso ITV22 / Autotech Internals / JBR EGR Delete / Corksport OCC | JBR Chrome-Moly 88A RMM / Corksport TMM Insert / Corksport Shifter Bushings | Prosport Halo Boost Gauge / Corksport LED DRL and Foglight Bulbs / Rally Armor Mudflaps |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Even having that cat delete on the car your playing the waiting game on if something is going to happen. i also notice you have LC and FFS but your running the stratified tune? As far as i was aware the tune was locked and you couldnt use those options
__________________ ![]() 2013 CWP MS3 w/tech packageJBR SRI - JBR TIP - CorkSport TMIC - CNT Catted TBE - DevilsOwn Stage2 WMI - Autotech internals - Cobb AP - NGK ITV22's - JBR dogbone RMM - CorkSport TMM insert - Turbosmart BPV - JBR Boost/BPV tubes - JBR SSP w/bushings - CorkSport OCC - Koni sport shocks - Ground Control Coilovers - JBR rsb - JBR Camber Arms - 18x7.5 Work Emotion CR Kai |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score It is locked, but there is a tool on the Cobb website to add LC and FFS to locked, custom, and protune maps. You simply browse to your map on your pc, then input limits for LC, FFS and the threshold speed at which LC turns off. The tool then sends you an exact copy of that map with both features enabled. The map remains locked still.
__________________ | 2010 Mazdaspeed with Tech Pkg / 18x8.5" Enkei T6S w/ Nitto NT05 245/40 | Cobb AccessPORT / Self Tuned | Ultimate Racing Turboback Exhaust (Catted, Non-resonated) / Ultimate Racing FMIC | Grimmspeed EBCS / Turbosmart Dual Port BPV / Denso ITV22 / Autotech Internals / JBR EGR Delete / Corksport OCC | JBR Chrome-Moly 88A RMM / Corksport TMM Insert / Corksport Shifter Bushings | Prosport Halo Boost Gauge / Corksport LED DRL and Foglight Bulbs / Rally Armor Mudflaps |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Some OEM pumps are stronger than others but as a general rule for safety, I do recommend and HPFP ASAP if you plan on modifying this car in general. A good test for the HPFP is to do a multi gear pull. Take a 2, 3, 4 multi gear pull shifting quickly and taking each gear to redline and log all this. Watch HPFP Act. Pressure right after the shift as the turbo spools back up and you're on the throttle. Does it dip below 1500-1600psi while under WOT? If it does, it's time for an HPFP.
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