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 Old 12-18-2014, 10:11 PM   #1
 
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Default Sk1nny finally goes built motor/BT

Alrighty ladies and gentlemen,

My car has just not been doing too hot the last few months. First started noticing oil coming out of my intake a while back. Cleaned everything, installed new pcv and damond occ, still finding oil all over. I finally strapped on some balls and did a compression check on the motor. Ended up having cracked/damaged ringlands. I told my wife I'm never selling the car, so we are left to building the motor!!! I got the get go from the wife, and with some more coaxing got the go on BT too lol. I will order parts here in about 1 week. Car will be getting pulled apart about then as well. Building the motor myself, because I have always wanted too that's why!

Goal:
500awhp ms6
130 traps
Essentially a 10 sec car that needs driver mod lol.
Killer setup for the street

Parts List:
Manley Pistons
Manley H beam rods
Kings Bearings
Arp L19 head/main studs
Engine Gasket kit
New VVT kit
Crower Valve Springs
SP63 transfer case bearing cap
PTE 5858 Vband .82 a/r
Boost Junkyz Manifold
Tial MVR wg
Tr10 intercooler
Corksport Seals
Keyed Crank/Pinned Cams

I already have DSS axle, ported head, 4" HTP intake and other things to help me get there. Super excited for this. Car is getting pulled apart at new years and hopefully it will be fired up by Feb. Getting it tuned Purple Drank style. We finally got a AWD dyno local now, so she will definitely hit the rollers. I will keep you guys updated and pix to follow. She should ready for the 1/4 here come springtime.
Engine.JPG

PTE 5858.JPG

5858 Hotside.JPG

Tial MVR.JPG

DSC_1484.JPG

DSC_1486.JPG

DSC_1487.JPG
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 Old 12-18-2014, 11:26 PM   #2
 
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Chose the parts very carefully. Follow the discussion about the head studs, you will see they are not that great, get the L19s instead from the same people that will fix your transfer case.

About the main studs, they should be good just keep in mind that you will not be able to keep the BSD - that if you intend to keep it (I intend to keep it after my build). The OEM main studs would serve you just as well. @England15j can tell you more about this.
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Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
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 Old 12-19-2014, 02:54 AM   #3
 
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Let me know if you need help! I'd love to learn. I'm sure I could drag Sean along too
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 Old 12-19-2014, 08:27 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Chose the parts very carefully. Follow the discussion about the head studs, you will see they are not that great, get the L19s instead from the same people that will fix your transfer case.

About the main studs, they should be good just keep in mind that you will not be able to keep the BSD - that if you intend to keep it (I intend to keep it after my build). The OEM main studs would serve you just as well. @England15j can tell you more about this.
Lol, trust me, I have thought long and hard on my parts. Was going to build it to support 800+ hp, but then some common sense kicked in and I realized I will enjoy 500 for quite some time. L19's are on my list, as are arp mains. I already have done the BSD so no worries there. Super stocked about pulling this thing apart. Was gonna get some stage 2 SP63 cams, but decided the stock cams can rev pretty hi already, lets just change out the springs to avoid floating a valve.

Originally Posted by Jester2552 View Post
Let me know if you need help! I'd love to learn. I'm sure I could drag Sean along too
Definitely man! I am sure I could use an extra hand. Any local nator guys are welcome to help out with the fun
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 Old 12-19-2014, 09:26 AM   #5
 
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Man can't wait to see the results!
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 Old 12-19-2014, 10:18 AM   #6
 
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Can't wait to get this thing tuned!!
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 Old 12-23-2014, 11:53 PM   #7
 
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e85? meth? or both?
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 Old 12-26-2014, 08:35 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by maddocx240 View Post
e85? meth? or both?
I think I will just run meth. We will see where it gets me. Looks like 26-27psi makes some damn good power on Evos. Hopefully I get close to what they are pullin
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 Old 12-28-2014, 11:12 PM   #9
 
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You should check out kings bearing that sp63 starting selling, im def going that route on the next build. Also did you look into going dual vband instead of T3? JMF intake manifold wouldn't be a bad idea either for that HP goal especially with meth because your gonna need to spray alot to make 500+
Good luck with the build!
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 Old 12-29-2014, 09:19 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by darkstar5440 View Post
You should check out kings bearing that sp63 starting selling, im def going that route on the next build. Also did you look into going dual vband instead of T3? JMF intake manifold wouldn't be a bad idea either for that HP goal especially with meth because your gonna need to spray alot to make 500+
Good luck with the build!
SP63 is sending me some kings bearings. I'm sure they are nice. I thought about dual v band but did not know or think there was advantage with it besides how easy it would be to install. Really any? I still have time as I am waiting on a call from Boost Junkyz and I don't think edge has shipped my turbo out yet. I know 500 is a hefty order with meth, we will see how close. If not, I will start thinking about a new im and 6th port lol

Edit: Just got off the phone with Eric from edge and he will be shipping me a dual vband 5858 lol. Guess I'm going vband
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 Old 12-29-2014, 11:19 AM   #11
 
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Jeff getting 500 with meth isn't hard i've done it on multiple cars now. Only takes around 1000cc of meth to get there. Throw in one d14 or go direct port and call it a day. I've got one car with a gtx3071 on 30psi w/ 4 d05's(overkill) his idc is only 70% lolol. Also have another car with a BWs360 and a single D14 making over 500
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 Old 12-29-2014, 09:43 PM   #12
 
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I believe the vband flows better and also is much easier to deal with.

As far as the meth i wasnt saying 500 isnt feasible. I made 560 on meth with the same turbo. What I was trying to say is the stock intake manifold even with vcts delete and ported does not distribute the fuel evenly. I suggested the JMF as a safer route considering all the money you've dumped already.


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I assume you are spraying pre TB right?


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 Old 12-29-2014, 10:22 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by darkstar5440 View Post
I believe the vband flows better and also is much easier to deal with.

As far as the meth i wasnt saying 500 isnt feasible. I made 560 on meth with the same turbo. What I was trying to say is the stock intake manifold even with vcts delete and ported does not distribute the fuel evenly. I suggested the JMF as a safer route considering all the money you've dumped already.


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I assume you are spraying pre TB right?


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Got ya. I will see how this goes and yes pre TB
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 Old 01-07-2015, 10:18 PM   #14
 
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Well, got some good work done on pulling the motor. Super busy with other things too though. Plan is to have motor pulled by the weekend. On Tues, have block dropped off for cleaning, boaring and honing. Also plan to have my crank and cams shipped off to SP63 the same day. Tial MVR showed up the other day and my 5858 came yesterday. Waiting for more stuff to show up before I throw pix up. The more I hear about the 5858 the more I get excited. Maybe we will shoot for 550awhp lol.
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 Old 01-09-2015, 11:48 PM   #15
 
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Just spent 3 more hours on the car (total 6hours so far). All I have left is to pull the axles, pull the transfer case, motor/tranny mounts and hoist her out!!! It has gone a lot easier and quicker than expected! Fine!!! Here are a few pix of what has arrived so far, not much sorry lol.
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File Type: jpg Tial MVR.JPG (428.6 KB, 70 views)
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 Old 01-13-2015, 09:51 PM   #16
 
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Got the motor pulled sat night at midnight. I ended up pulling the motor/trans and transfer case all at once. Crower springs are here and my TR10 showed up today. That thing is huge lol. Motor is all stripped down except for the damn oil pump. Can't get the drive gear off to get to the last bolt lol. I was expecting to seen damaged ringlands, but they were all good. Looks like some of the piston rings were just worn. Even after 115k miles on the car, you can still see some of the factory honing lines. Stand by for pix.
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 Old 01-13-2015, 09:58 PM   #17
 
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Hit that oil pump bolt with the impact. I had the same problem because I pulled the chain and pulley first. Impact zipped it right off.
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 Old 01-14-2015, 10:46 PM   #18
 
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More stuff arrived today!!!! Got the cp-e safe seals and my cs seals showed up. CP-E's are getting sent back. I ended up finding the perfect size box for sending my crank and cams off to SP63. Took a picture of my 6 puck with 18k miles on it. Pretty much stop and go traffic, no commuting. Not much left of it. The tabs that hold the material are just starting to get scuffs. My boost junkyz manifold will be getting shipped out Friday at the latest, with free two day shipping. Can't be more happy about the customer service they have provided. Good group of guys over there. Add a new disc to my list!!! Here are a few pix for you guys and gals
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File Type: jpg DSC_1492.JPG (402.2 KB, 62 views)
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 Old 01-15-2015, 04:58 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Chose the parts very carefully. Follow the discussion about the head studs, you will see they are not that great, get the L19s instead from the same people that will fix your transfer case.

About the main studs, they should be good just keep in mind that you will not be able to keep the BSD - that if you intend to keep it (I intend to keep it after my build). The OEM main studs would serve you just as well. @England15j can tell you more about this.
Just wanting to clarify what you said, Did you say that you could not get aftermarket mainstuds to work with the Balance Shafts still installed?
I maybe reading this wrong.
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 Old 01-15-2015, 05:03 PM   #20
 
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Default Sk1nny finally goes built motor/BT

Oem main studs are shorter and have the clearance required to install the BS aftermarket arp studs would have to be cut down as they are longer and would interfere with the BS.

Pic is borrowed from @Reedy; build thread showing arp studs trimmed down for BS install

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1421366729.190206.jpg
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 Old 01-16-2015, 07:12 PM   #21
 
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Got some pix of my manifold from Daniel at boost junkyz!!! It will get here Tues!!! Mine is the middle on
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 Old 01-17-2015, 12:54 AM   #22
 
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 Old 01-17-2015, 10:28 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by England15j View Post
Oem main studs are shorter and have the clearance required to install the BS aftermarket arp studs would have to be cut down as they are longer and would interfere with the BS.

Pic is borrowed from @Reedy; build thread showing arp studs trimmed down for BS install

Attachment 188098
Yea we just faced them off in a lathe. Not sure how much material needs to be removed but we cut them down to whatever the stock size is.
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 Old 01-17-2015, 11:01 AM   #24
 
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Love the build, what are you doing for a dp?
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 Old 01-17-2015, 11:19 AM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by Snyeed View Post
Love the build, what are you doing for a dp?
Been rockin with the ebay dp for almost 4 years now, no need to replace it
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 Old 01-17-2015, 11:39 AM   #26
 
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So the mani puts the turbo in stock location then, eBay vband dp works no problem.

Good to know!
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 Old 01-17-2015, 01:59 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by Snyeed View Post
So the mani puts the turbo in stock location then, eBay vband dp works no problem.

Good to know!
That's what I'm hoping lol. But yeah, should work just fine. The dp has a little wiggle room, I don't think there will be an issue
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 Old 01-18-2015, 12:19 PM   #28
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You will definitely want a JMF intake manifold, no doubt about it.

You're going to have to push real hard on that stock manifold to make 500 AWHP to where it really is not safe or reliable especially since you'll be giving the motor hell with track abuse.

Great build Sk1nny glad to see you'll finally be making nasty power and racing.
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 Old 01-18-2015, 04:44 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by ms3blackmica View Post
You will definitely want a JMF intake manifold, no doubt about it.

You're going to have to push real hard on that stock manifold to make 500 AWHP to where it really is not safe or reliable especially since you'll be giving the motor hell with track abuse.

Great build Sk1nny glad to see you'll finally be making nasty power and racing.
Thanks mang!! I'm going to see how far the stock IM can take me safely. If I need to step up to a jmf, then so be it. Hopefully there will be some more options out there if and when we get to that point. Cannot wait to tear it up at Firebird Raceway this year. Finally should smoke my buddies bolted and sc'd srt8 jeep lol. His last run of the season he got kicked off the track for no cage. I'm down!!!
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 Old 01-22-2015, 11:18 AM   #30
 
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Boost Junkyz got banned - anyone know why?

I hope it's not for deceptive practices or something, I was this close to buying one of their manis...
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 Old 01-22-2015, 05:29 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by England15j View Post
Oem main studs are shorter and have the clearance required to install the BS aftermarket arp studs would have to be cut down as they are longer and would interfere with the BS.

Pic is borrowed from @Reedy; build thread showing arp studs trimmed down for BS install

Attachment 188098
Gotcha, the picture clears up what he meant.
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 Old 01-22-2015, 06:48 PM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by Cataphract_40 View Post
Boost Junkyz got banned - anyone know why?

I hope it's not for deceptive practices or something, I was this close to buying one of their manis...
I would guess he does/has not paid vendor fees or something. Dan is a super cool guy. I have spoken/text with him quite a few times now. He never hesitates to give me a call/text back. They were really busy at the shop when building my manifold and took longer than expected. He ended up doing 2 day shipping for me for free!
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 Old 01-29-2015, 10:17 PM   #33
 
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Okay!!! Finally got some more sexyness photos taken for you kids!! Got my box of parts from Pablo today!!! Now I can drop the pistons off at the machine shop so they can bore/final hone on my block. Still send my injectors to injector RX. After that, just need my cams and crank returned to me. Got my boost junkyz manifold and it is built right!! I have seen many manifolds. From turbo xs, to racebuilt and fullrace. It is built stout like the racebuilt was, and quality of the welds and collector like the fullrace was. I found one issue with this manifold and turbo though. As you can see in two photos, the compressor housing is extremely close to the block side of the manifold; no room for the stud where it bolts on. I Have two ways to fix this. 1: Weld up the head where the egr is and just hack off the end of the manifold. Or 2: Flip the compressor housing so it aims down and I run my IC piping under the car. I am aiming at the later, that way I don't hack on a brand spanking new manifold. Got all my odds and end parts here too. Hoping to start reassembly here as soon as I get my parts back from SP63.
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 Old 01-30-2015, 07:05 PM   #34
 
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Dropped off the pistons today. My block should be ready for pickup next Fri. Shipping injectors off tomorrow
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 Old 02-26-2015, 11:50 PM   #35
 
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Dayyyuuummm Gina!!!! Been almost 1 month since an update. Finally got my keyed crank and pinned cams from sp63 today. Got home from work, put the kid to bed and started assembling the short block. Finish @ 11:30 PM. Now I just need some head action. Going to check valve bucket clearances, that should be a pain.
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 Old 02-27-2015, 07:00 AM   #36
 
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Nice set up, Love the number plates
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 Old 03-12-2015, 08:45 AM   #37
 
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Anyone have photos of dumptube with ewg on this setup


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 Old 03-12-2015, 11:12 PM   #38
 
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Patiently waiting for my timing chain!!! Never ceases to amaze me at how much USPS blows ballsack!!!
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 Old 03-12-2015, 11:57 PM   #39
 
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I love this build!
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Originally Posted by Captain KR View Post
bitch you thieve these nuts in your mouth..... trying to say my stroke game is weak i stroke better than you dream of strokin..... frail ass lite brite
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 Old 03-14-2015, 05:34 PM   #40
 
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I was thinking about going with that same exact turbo setup and manifold, i just need to find someone locally to make me a downpipe.
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SP63 Built Engine. 5858. Meth.

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Parts needed to install: JMF, HTP 4.0", HKS BOV
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